LOG
It's not that i'm getting old, I just thought it'd be nice to have a board for those small summer waves and do a bit of Hotdogging from time to time, why not?
Monday, 7 June 2010
05/06/10
I had thought i'd lost my surfjo after the lasat two sesh's. I got it back today though low tide Croyde on Red was sick, 3-4ft and clean as you like! People in Devon get up so bloody early though! 70-80 people already in at 6am WTF!
Read more...03/06/10
Widdy on Red 2ft and clean! The surfgods obviously decided I didn't deserve a good B'Day surf! Had a good Ruby Murray at Bay View in and a Betty though! Nice
Read more...02/06/10
OMG What a frustrating surf it looked so promising at 7ft@12secs, low tide Watergate on Dippy, it was so fat I recon I needed a longboard and unbelievably rippy my arms and shoulders were busting by the end of the sesh and I only caught a handful of waves! Had a nice big left and that was the wave of the day! Sucker!
Read more...Friday, 28 May 2010
Quiver
From Left to Right:-
Dippy - 5'11" Diplock
Pink - 6' Adams
Red - 6' Adams Carbon Rail
Dave - 6'2" Dave Brown
Freddie - 6'3" Al Merrick Flyer 2 in Tufflite
Fatty - 6'9" Sprayed it myself using Ford Orange and Peugeot Green
22/05/10
Dawny at Croyde Low tide!
I got to Down End at 6.15 and there was already a guy charging, so I told him I wasn't staying and left after a big poo in the public toilets there! I parked at the good old National Trust CP for free (membership free anyway) It was heaving 40 people in at 6.30 and about 3million but 8.30 WTF! It was a real punchy wave around the 3ft marker, got slammed into the sea bed a few times but it's all good! Went in on Red (6' Adams Carbon Rail). Three diferent boards in three sessions, it good to make use of the quiver that has taken me years to build!
21/05/10
Croyde - Sunny, 3ft and Clean!
Went in on Dippy (5'11" Diplock) it was quite busy but for some reason no one was catching many waves except me and this guy on a fat green fish! Had a good surf but there was a big lull between sets and I got bored talking to myself in the end so I went after a couple of hours only after a good handfull of waves though!
18/05/10
The Cornish Gate!
It looked rubbish and I was meeting a none surfing uni mate that was down so I didn't rush in! Had a nice Hot Chocolate first! It was alot better than it looked I went in on Freddie 'The Flyer' and it was actually quite good fun found a nice peak pretty much to myself only a couple of kooks that I just kept snaking! There was a fun steep reform on the inside as it was low and it was shoulder high! 3/5
Friday, 30 April 2010
I have to back track a bit now as I am getting lazy with this blog already! I must try harder! Beck's working tonight btw!
Beck and I had the week off from 11th April so we headed down to Cornwall for the start of it, the only thing is it was; yep you guessed it; flat! Well near as damn it anyway! Loggable but without a log it was unsurfable! I did get in with Blocko though on the Sunday!
We went down to the Minnack Theatre which is an awesome place, the weather was wicked, we saw a pod of about 50-60 dolphins and I spotted some people on the nuddy beach which was funny. I mean really naked in the second week of April, the guy must be really desperate to get a black willy! Does a suntanned willy make a bigger willy? I've heard that black willy's are bigger than white!
Anyway back to surf reporting:-
11/04/10
As above me and Blocko went in for what I thought was a real desperate session at Godreefy (A little to the right of Godrevy but over the rocks at high tide, me and Blocko like to rename spots for fun!) It was actually quite fun we took it in turns to be the giver and the reciever and not in a gay way just a bit camp! We even had a little crowd taking photos and stuff! It's amazing how tired you get in 1ft surf, turn and burn and paddle straight back out and turn and burn again and so on!
26/04/10
First session without boots finally! I really do hate wearing boots! I had a site visit for work at Launceston at 2.30 conveniently arranged by myself so after I then headed to Watergate to meet up with Blocko (New daddy) the sun was shining and the surf was 2ft+ and clean I was pretty happy to be in the water and getting paid at the same time! Got a few waves under my belt too which was nice!
29/04/10
I had one of those antagonising mornings at work where I really could not decide whether the surf was going to be clean enough or not! Trev Toes Lumley reported 2-3ft and clean in the morning but I knew the wind was westerly and only getting stronger! I was listening/watching to the asp in Brazil and talking to people on Eyeball at the same time a couple of which (Ramon esp) had just been surfing so I got a recommendation that it was worth the trip from Exeter! He was right it was head high on the sets and alot cleaner than I thought albiet a little choppy, I had a couple of bombs from outback right into the beach, it got shit at high tide so I headed in.
This is where it all got a bit painfull, I parked at the National Trust Carpark not thinking about the fact that the shortcut over the rocks is not accessible at high tide, therfore Ihad to walk the long away around with bare cold feet, I felt like I had wore my feet down to the bone by the time I got back to the car! Ouch
Sunday, 21 March 2010
DIY (Nesting)
When I first started this blog, I thought and I hoped that it would be mostly reporting on my surf sessions, however once again the weekend shows a poor effort on the waves front. At least I got in on Friday!
So as you can see by the photos I have spent the day screwing wood, I have made a pretty neat shoe storage, put some more modulisation into the built in wardrobe in the spare room, built the babies set of draws (Wardrobe to follow) and re-arranged the surf shed. Wetsuits are now at the back with the boards in the middle, I only use two suits at a time and the rest were getting in my way so it works a lot better i've chuck Beck's sponge and the spare sponge in the back too!
So I would say a weekend of diy due to the poor surf but my neighbours are telling me it nesting! I'm not sure either way maybe a bit of both, you decide for yourself!
Saturday, 20 March 2010
The cornish gate
I was planning on going to Widdy or N.Devon, but when I was talking about it at work one of the other Engineers asked if I was going near Launceston, not one to miss this opportunity I decided to take to diesel money do a 5 min site visit and go on to Watergate! I was expecting it to be pretty big and half expected to have to head to the bay, however it looked like it was 5ft max on the sets, the report on MSW said 10ft faces and a monster paddle.
Well they got the monster paddle right, not to get out put just to stay still, the swell dropped through the session and the wind swung around which was pretty annoying, I got stuck in a rip over on the right as the tide was coming in against the rocks so I decided to do the walk of shame before I got stuck, I hate doing the walk of shame! Got out back again pretty quick though so should have just done it earlier.
I had met Block-o there but ended up missing each other most of the session, should have gone to specsavers! It was good to get some decent sized waves for a change even though it wasn't particularly a good session. O well shit 2010 of surf goes on, it is warmning up though!
Sunday, 14 March 2010
Mountain Biking
So once again the surf was none existent, so I met Jim (Who's B'day it was) and Dunc on the canal yesterday morning as they were rowing to Turf Lock, I did a bit of coaching on the bike and running along side! It did make me miss the rowing but that's only because there's no surf!
We then had lots of cake and coffee at Lutzy's (Highly recommended cafe on the quay), then went up on Haldon for a spot of mountain biking. It has been a while since I've been up there, too long I suppose, and much to my disgust it turns out the Forestry Commision have wrecked all the runs and replaced them with their own (I guess safe) version, but they are really quite rubbish, we did the red run, it now has big white rocks right at the side of the track that mean you can't get any speed up unless you're technical enough. I ended up ploughing straight over the top of one which gave me an instant flaty which meant I stacked it around the next bend so now both my shins have a few more cuts and lumps!
We did make it into town and to Timepiece that night which was a laugh followed by an anemic chicken burger at the golden arches. Been feeling it today but had an awesome full english at a cafe/shed on Budleigh Salterton beach in the sun and a steady walk along the river, very steady!
Desperate
This year is really getting quite desperate, so desperate in fact that Nick and I went in at Fistral last weekend when the surf was about a foot and messy and there was a long wait between each set! I really am getting quite frustrated with the lack of weekend surf at the moment, normally this time of the year i'd have managed 15 or so sessions instead i've been 4 and 2 of those sessions were bad. It's funny because I often spend a lot of time thinking about what new board I would like to try next and what board I'd sell to buy it, this year I haven't thought about it at all I just want to go for a decent surf, so surf gods if your really exist please help! I'm loosing the will! On the plus side it'll soon be possible for evening surfs!
Read more...Sunday, 21 February 2010
I really tested my dedication to surfing yesterday and now I'm starting to wonder whether it was all really worth it! So I got up at 5.45 to get to Watergate for 7.30, I have started to take my time in the mornings rather than rushing/speeding! The charts looked very average but I have only been in twice this year due to my arm and crap weekend surf! I got 10mins past Okehampton and it started snowing, like really heavily, due to the fact it was so early I was literly the first car driving on it which was pretty scary, I decided it was probably only through Bodmin Moor so I carried on regardless! 30 miles later and it finally stopped, then the A30 was shut but the detour wasn't too bad! I did actually get to Watergate for exactly 7.30. I pulled up into the car park and one dude had already got out, considering it had only been light for like 30 mins it wasn't looking good, I asked him what it was like and he said "um 3ft and er messy". I drove up to the top of the cliff to have a look from the layby, I was meeting my mate there anyhow! Yep it was rubbish, decided to have a look at Lusty but the tide was too high! Ended up at Fistral and it was better than I would have thought but really quite average!
So was it worth it, £20 on diesel and my arm is sore again, I don't really know! Last year I would just go and make the most of every session and forget about the diesel cost or anything else, why am I now thinking about these things? Is it because we've got a baby on the way and we are looking around at buying a house? It did make me decide one thing and that is that I need to make a big effort to try and move closer to the coast again and stop just talking about it! I was chatting to Trev Toes the other weekend and he said "It's just a life choice" and he's right I need to do it now, before I get too many more complications!
Tuesday, 9 February 2010
This inflatable canoe has been so much fun on those flatter days i fully recommend it! We have paddled it across the Estuary from Starcross to Exmouth for a pint or two as well!
Read more...
For those of you who surf and in fact anyone who appreciates a good photo, then you should definitely check out this website Rob's shots are ace!
http://www.sunsetsurfers.co.uk/
http://www.robpuigphotography.co.uk/
Wednesday, 3 February 2010
Jimbo and I took the mountain bikes up on Dartmoor early January and it was bloody freezing but well worth it with veiws like this, Devon is awesome!
Fractured Elbow
This is the slope at the back of Kennford that I rather foolishly tried to snowboard down, on a bodyboard! 4 Weeks later and a think I am just about able to go back in the sea! Going to try this weekend as it's looking pretty sick!
Read more...
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